Qui la versione italiana Molise does not exist. This is the running joke, and if you cross the whole region in one go on the motorway, it may seem almost mtrue, but the Samnite Museum in Campobasso alone is enough to prove that Molise exists now and certainly existed in the past. Finding myself in town, I returned to visit it after an absence of a few years due to the pandemic, on one of those autumn mornings as sweet as spring. I crossed the sunny Corso and stopped for a coffee in Piazza Pepe, which had been transformed into an open-air salon. I passed a small shop on Via Cannavina, which always gives me an overwhelming urge to buy something superfluous and fancy, said hello to the statue of Fred Buongusto and climbed the steps to Palazzo Lanzarotta, where the museum is located. The Samnite Museum has recently been renovated and has a modern and well kept exhibition, with detailed explanations of each piece, the history of the finds and the overall picture. It is not hug...